LINE ALIGNER

 

 

 

 

Take the hook link, either something like ESP stiff rig or Amnesia and thread it down the hook length. Don't tie a loop at the end of the line as you will not need one.

 

 

Carefully tie on the hook using the knotless knot (see diagram in the 'sharp end' for details). Make sure that the whippings along the shank stop just under half way along it's length.

 

 

After you have tied the knot, bend the tail back and thread a sliding ring onto is, as shown left. The sliding ring is where you will attach your boilie.

 

 

Thread the tag end back through the hook's eye and then carefully burn it with a cigarette lighter. This will create a blob that stops the 'D' unravelling itself.

 

 

Shown left is the finished 'D' rig complete and ready to be attached. The burned 'bob' can be clearly seen.

 

LINE ALIGNER

 

 

You can either tie the boilie on using a fine Dacron material, or you can use a hair stop and thread the hair through it. In this example we will tie the boilie on.

Create a groove in the hook bait and carefully tie on the boilie as shown left Tie it as securely as you can - nothing is worse than seeing the pop-up up float to the surface and then have a carp swirl on the surface and take it!

Then thread the hair through the sliding ring and secure the boilie in place. Some angler's use rig glue to strengthen the knot - I am wary of tainting the bait so don't.

 

This shows the rest of the hook link. Tie a loop in one end of the link, complete with a sliding ring. Tie a swivel to the other end of the link, which should be about 10 inches long.

 

Now connect the hook section of the hook link to the sliding ring on the loop. This part of the rig can be anything from 1 - 4 inches in length and depends on the type of lake bottom you are fishing.

 

This is primarily a pop-up rig so some heavy metal putty should be moulded around the knot of the loop in order to balance the pop-up.

 

 

The finished rig!